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A Journey of Discovery

Part one of a two part series: The Wainikoroiluva

In a chain of South Pacific Islands renown for sun, sand, and surf it was with great surprise that we began our final descent into one of the highlands hidden jewels, Namosi Valley. Reaching the last mountain pass we had both visually and physically left behind the sand fringed coast line and azure seas of a more typical Fiji for the emerald forests and crystalline waters of the Namosi highlands. It is here that we have come to run the Wainikoroiluva River in inflatable kayaks and explore an area far from any beaten path. We have come to find a different, perhaps unknown, and perhaps forgotten about Fiji. This is a place where giant tree ferns replace palm trees, where precipitous cliffs and hidden valleys unite in a treacherous landscape, and mountain breezes rustling through the leaves of countless trees speak in unison like the lull of a rolling surf.

Following our mountain top communion, we descended the steep grade into the depths of the valley and our ultimate destination, the Wainikoroiluva River. The foggy morning adds a sense of mystery and intrigue to this place as villagers burdened with firewood and morning chores move in and out of view en-route to their respective bures. The valley air is cool and smoke rising from many a small cooking fire mixes with the heavy mist further obscuring the landscape. The outlines of bures, fences, trees and all that has shape, is softened by this unusual lighting so everything we see is like an artist's

impression of a black and white photograph. Here in the valley, time seems to have followed a different set of rules from that of our society. One is easily drawn to the conclusion that what they are seeing today is what they might have seen nearly a century ago. It is places like these that give the term "timeless" true meaning and remind us of what debatably must be a simpler and ultimately healthier existence. Continuing along the road we pass a few more villages, whom our driver reminds us, were not always so serene. The valley we are told was the sight of

many a tribal war. In fact, the very villages we are passing this morning were once located high above the valley floor on surrounding hilltops for protection from their enemies. The very steepness and height of these hills must have acted as a significant deterrent to their raids. A bit further on we pass some caves where the bones of chiefs and unlucky warriors were placed before the advent of Christianity.

Our history lesson is momentarily disrupted by a gentle breeze that has begun to lift the heavy air and mist from the valley. Now rising abruptly before us on both sides of the road, are shear- faced cliffs reaching valiantly toward a clear blue sky. The darkness and shadows that had shrouded these enormous monoliths since the setting of the sun the day prior have now been lifted to reveal another dimension to this valleys hidden beauty. The beams of sunlight that cut their way through the mist illuminate the stone faces with amber hues and the once colorless valley begins to glow with life and the promise of an exciting new day.

Winding our way through the valley we eventually arrive at a gorge in which is said to dwell a chicken headed serpent whose less than friendly behavior has earned him an unfavorable reputation with the local villagers. Working our way along the lip of the gorge we eventually secure just the right vantage point which allows us to peer into the lair of the serpent of ill-repute. Unfortunately we are unable to catch a glimpse of him this day, however, we are re-assured that he does exist. What we did see however was a stretch of river that was definitely unrunable from a boaters perspective, serpent maybe, boater no! En-route back to the road we are informed that the gorge was at one time a far friendlier place in terms of potential boating. In fact it was during an earthquake in 1952 that much of the gorge was sealed up by enormous slabs of rock cleaving off the canyon walls during a rumble that shook this valley to it's very foundations, created a great flood and completely destroyed an entire village.

Back aboard our carrier we drive a short distance to a steep trail that winds its way down to the river just below the gorge. It is there that we finally reach the clear waters of the Wainikoroiluva and launch our kayaks. Some young men from the village of Nakavika bid us farewell and actually swim through the first rapid with us. While we are not exactly sure what to expect, we have done enough research to find out that the villagers from Nakavika frequently swim, and fish the river down to the village of Namuamua, our final kayaking destination. Further research of topographical maps and discussions with friends has re-assured us that with the exception of a possible logjam from the recent high water, we should be well within our abilities. Approximately a kilometer downstream we run into our first of many surprises, a hot water spring flowing from the side of the canyon walls. We stop for a few minutes to run the hot sulfuric water over our hands and feet and soak up some scenery. The hot water spring belies the islands violent volcanic birth and is a subtle reminder that we stand on a landmass that had risen from the ocean depths countless years ago during a series of violent explosions. Turning our kayaks downstream we continue our exploration of the Wainikoroiluva.

The rapids we encounter have all been very forgiving, gentle, and class II in nature. While it's not hard to imagine a very different, more challenging river at higher flows, the level we are experiencing today is just perfect. Lots of boulder mazes, good waves and just the right blend of challenge and relaxation. For those not familiar with river classifications, Class II is a great level for beginners. One of the unique aspects of the rapids we've been running is that depending on our individual curiosity, each of the rapids has offered us the opportunity to run the obvious or take the path less traveled. While we both tend to stay on the safe side, neither of us can completely resist the temptation to embrace some of the challenges offered up by this fun river. With that said, YES, we did take an unplanned swim or two--YAHOO!

Another couple kilometers downstream we stop for a cool dip in a deep pool of clear water complete with its own school of fish. The villagers from Nakavika tell us that they frequently visit the river on weekends in search of fish, prawns and occasionally eels. While on this journey we will only see the freshwater fish, we have since discovered both eels and prawns. After a few jumps from a nearby rock and a few water fights we are back aboard our sporty little crafts and are going with the flow. A bit further downstream, the canyon walls begin to close in and rise up over head. Now with the sunlight restricted by a deepening canyon and a dense jungle, we find the shadows and filtered light a welcome reprieve from the intensity of the tropical sun. Soon we are enclosed in a beautiful canyon complete with small cave, the trickle of a waterfall, cobble stone beach and a tapestry of jungle plants. It's not long until a screeching pair of sulfur crested musk parrots take-light overhead and complete this idyllic scene. Again we find ourselves pleasantly surprised by a river and an environment that we had not previously associated with Fiji. A bit tuckered from paddling, we decide to take our lunch break and enjoy both the scenery and tranquility of this garden grotto before continuing downstream.

Just downstream from our lunch stop we are again struck with another enchanting sight. This time it's an 80 foot waterfall flowing from the side of a sheer cliff. Noticing that we are well ahead of schedule, the waterfall beckons and we hop out of the kayaks and take a short hike to the pool below and go for a swim. Besides, it's the tropics and what better way to enjoy a hot day than by keeping cool beneath a waterfall. The roar of the falling water all but drowns out everything except your thoughts. However in beautiful places like these, one does not need words to communicate the beauty of such a place, one simply glances over into the eyes of the other to understand the delight of what they are experiencing.

Further downstream we begin to note signs of human habitation. First there are the plantations, followed by cows munching on leafy shoots, an occasional horse, and

eventually simple structures that indicate our proximity to the more elaborate villages of this region. Arriving on the beach of one of the largest, Namuamua, we are met by curious children whose warm smiles and bright eyes betray their shyness. Within a short amount of time we have made friends, swapped stories of journeys on the river, and ultimately traded responsibilities of navigating the rest of the river. The kayaks are now guided by enthusiastic children who, in a flurry of laughter and a mix of broken English, descend upon and through the last rapid to the confluence of the Wainikoroiluva and the Navua Rivers. It's hard to imagine better emissaries than small, light hearted, good willed children. They attempt to tell us about themselves, and we, about our trip, neither really getting the full message across only that we have made friends and in the end, not much else really matters. This scene has become one of those memories that will remain with us for a lifetime. While most of the adults sit back and watch from a respectful distance, the

children see only an opportunity to play, reminding us of what it was like to be young, and that fun is where you make it-even in the remote highlands of Fiji's spectacular interior.

It is here at Namuamua that we deflate our boats and board the motorized punts (longboats) for our exploratory down the remaining 12 kilometers of the Navua River. Winding our way through another beautiful canyon complete with waterfalls, exotic birds, and giant fruit bats we are again struck with the surprising and little known beauty of Fiji's hidden interior. With the wind in our hair, we skim along on this liquid pathway through pastoral valleys to the coast where mountain fragrances mix with salt air, and the setting sun provides a fitting end to this remarkable journey. Aboard a highlands carrier, inflatable kayaks, and Fijian punts, we explored two different and beautiful river gorges (Wainikorioluva and Navua), one spectacular highland valley, viewed numerous villages, interacted with the friendly people of Fiji, and saw more of the highlands than on any other journey we have taken thus far…a fantastic exploratory within one glorious day!

Nearly two years after their maiden voyage on the Wainikoroiluva the Brickers have returned to Fiji and started the whitewater rafting company Rivers Fiji which not only takes highlands travelers on the Wainikoroiluva but also the Upper Navua. By the end of the 1998 season Rivers Fiji hopes to begin operation of their multi day programs. For more information about exciting river journeys into the highlands of Fiji, please contact them directly at: T-679-450-147, FAX-679-450-148, or by e-mail at info@riversfiji.com.

Exploring the Upper Navua Gorge...

"Taking the liquid path less traveled"

It wasn't long after this fabulous journey that we immediately began planning another. In fact it was atop one of those lofty passes on the way into the Wainikoroiluva that we fixed our gaze on a blanket of clouds to the west. The clouds highlighted what unmistakably had to be the serpentine route of another potential river canyon. Little did we know this second journey into the watersheds of Fiji's Highlands would directly place us into a river Eden like no other

. In exchange for the blood and sweat lost during the first 5 kilometers of aggressive whitewater we would be rewarded with rare views of one of the most unique little canyons in all the world . For here, hidden by an impenetrable rainforest lies a canyon, nearly 12 kilometers long, and at places over 50 meters high and barely 7 meters wide. This was a place of plummeting waterfalls, where bars of sunlight illuminate moss covered cliffs and strange geologic formations watch over the visual treasures of an Eden untouched by mans careless intrusions. This was without doubt a place where Mother Nature had showcased some of her greatest works. For here amidst a natural cathedral complete with emerald archways and the reverberating hymns of cascading waterfalls we are drawn deeper and deeper into a canyon that had rarely before revealed its secrets, its uncommon beauty and it's existence to man. We've since come to know this place as the Upper Navua Gorge…Fiji's Grand Canyon. But that's another story of undiscovered treasures, physical challenges and moral dilemmas.